(aka: IECC Testing, Third Party Testing, Blow tests, Mechanical Testing, Energy Final)
Duct Leakage at Rough:
The best time to test duct leakage is after plumbing and electrical (they can damage ducting) and before insulation and drywall (easier to fix issues).
- Ducting inner and outer liners sealed with mastic and zip tied at all connections
- Buckets sealed if not airtight
- Dampers working properly - Fresh Air Closed and Zone dampers open
- Air Handler doors installed properly and sealed.
- Air Handler line sets sealed and cabinet taped if not airtight
- Returns properly sealed and air tight (inside and out)
- Star Collars sealed with mastic
- Lots of mastic on duct board buckets
Final Testing (after HVAC start up and balance):
Duct Leakage at Final:
(If test passed at rough you do not need to test again at final)
- Items on Testing at Rough need to be completed
- Buckets and returns sealed to drywall
- Are any buckets/returns covered up by drywall?
Envelope Leakage* (Blower Door)
- Plan for envelope leakage during construction - See Below
- Exterior doors AND weather stripping installed
- No broken windows
- Attic hatches installed and sealed
- Stove, bathroom and other ventilation properly installed with dampers
- Envelope Leakage needs to be planned for during the entire phase of construction, using materials that are airtight. See Below for a more detailed list.
- Stage 1 and 2 Polyseal
HVAC Static Pressure
- Clean air filter
- Appropriately sized and installed duct runs and returns
Room Pressure
- Returns, Jumpers or transfer vents installed in all bedrooms and offices. Master bedroom should have a dedicated return.
Ventilation Fans
- Ventilation fans in bath rooms and utilities need to be pull 50 CFM of air or more so an 80 CFM fan or greater needs to be installed. The exhaust pipe needs to be as straight as possible.
Supply Air Flow Verification
- Has the system been balanced? If not, we can help! It will take an extra hour ($150) HVAC contractor should have dampers installed and be on site to adjust fan speed if necessary.
- Need a Manual J
- HVAC Contractor installed dampers
Planning for Envelope Leakage during construction
- Seal holes or penetrations in the building envelope
- Seal windows, exterior doors and attic hatches
- Seal electrical, plumbing and HVAC penetrations between conditioned and unconditioned space
- Seal the bottom and top plates of exterior walls and walls to the attic
- Seal band joists. Joists or other cavities that span from conditioned to unconditioned spaces are blocked off and air sealed.
- All chase ways that would allow unconditioned air to enter into the conditioned building envelope are capped and sealed.
- Exterior walls behind tub and shower enclosures are insulated. Prior to installing the tub or shower, a rigid, durable air barrier is installed in direct contact with the insulation.
- Insulation wind baffles to block wind washing at all attic eave bays in roof assemblies with soffit vents are installed.
- An air barrier is blocking any exposed edges of insulation, particularly for cantilevered floor systems and floors above a garage.
- For fireplace cavities on exterior walls a rigid air barrier is fully aligned with the insulated framing in the framed shaft behind the fireplace and any gaps are fully sealed with foam, caulk or tape.
- For porch roofs, a rigid air barrier is installed at the intersection of the porch roof and exterior wall.
- For dropped ceilings, a rigid air barrier is fully aligned with insulated framing and any gaps fully sealed with caulk or foam.
- Recessed light fixtures (if installed in insulated cavities, such as the ceiling between the house and the attic) are rated ICAT (Insulation Contact, Air Tight). Once installed, they are sealed to the drywall with gasket, caulk or foam.